Initially, it came with a small glass cylindrical fuse of only 3A, which means that if the voltage is 12V DC as specified in the car's cigarette lighter, you will be able to use up to 36 Watts of power. After that, the fuse burns out if you exceed this limit. Additionally, it requires connecting it to your own bipolar cable using a soldering iron and soldering the metal contacts of the adapter, rather than using screws and terminals as is common in classic plugs for 230V. This connection is much easier and better than using solder.

I immediately replaced the fuse with a 5A one (now we have up to 60 Watts of power) and applied a 2-meter long flat cable with 2 x 0.75 mm2 (18 awg) thickness. I soldered the central wire, which is the (+) wire, to the brown wire (which would be the phase wire if it were 230V AC), and the blue wire (which would be the neutral wire in 230V AC) to the side contact, which is the (-) wire of the battery or the DC ground (GND).

Now, for greater safety than 5A, I DO NOT RECOMMEND under any circumstances to use a higher amp fuse, as there will be a problem because the thin spring that touches the fuse will ignite. Additionally, you will need to use cables with a thickness of over 1.5 mm2 (16 awg), which will not fit into the plug, even if you have a thick spring that matches the plug. The plug is designed for up to 5A for me to consider it safe.

If you are not skilled in soldering and have no experience with electronics/electrical work, do not buy it unless someone fixes it for you and you know what you want it for.

It makes contact in both cars that I tested it on without overheating or problems