The case is good, very expensive though without a particular reason, just because of "trend" and brand, I suppose. It's not that it didn't deserve the original price it came with (~150) but at the prices you can find it now, just no.
So, moving on from the amazing Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Comparisons are inevitable.
Here we have a good looking case, spacious, easy to build with nice features, such as the removable parts of the PSU shroud (you can literally disassemble it, if you want), removable bracket to mount the radiator externally, 3x140 good fans, the ability to switch mesh & silent front panel and top panels, huge cutout for the 8pin eps. And for some unimaginable reason, all of this is overshadowed by the space in the back, which is really scarce.
As if that's not enough, there is this thick sound dampening material on the side, which makes your life difficult. Honestly, with the panel open or closed, I didn't notice any difference, only be quiet knows the reason for the soundproofing (even though theoretically, when you want to "soundproof" a case, you do it from everywhere, however in this particular case, I don't know if it makes sense).
For someone who has PSU cable extensions, 3 HDD & 2 SSD, RGB fans as well as an AIO (with all the extra cables that come with it), like me, cable management is a big pain. If you have cable extensions, prepare yourself psychologically. It's completely sticky and you're playing a game of chance on how it will close.
The situation is saved (in the version with a window) by the fact that the covers for the extra HDDs that you have in the slots where you would put them (the case includes an extra HDD "floating" caddy), create channels for some cables, mainly those of the front panel, etc. If you want to populate all the HDD slots, get angled SATA, the little bit you save from the angled one will save you from damaging a SATA cable. Unthinkable for a case of this size. With my girlfriend's Dx500, I finished in 15 minutes, here I spent 1 and a half hours trying to figure out why it wouldn't close (even with pressure). I finally managed, after another half an hour of rearrangements.
It's worth mentioning that there are many tie points for cable ties. I don't remember how many. Routing is somewhat improved this way, however, the main problem is not that, but the soundproofing, as I mentioned at the beginning.
I should mention that the 4pin PWM of the fan hub/controller that the case has is so short that in 80% of cases it won't reach the CPU fan header. If I didn't have a PWM extension, I would have been left with the case in my hand (or I would have had to use the motherboard's fan headers and leave the fan hub unused).
All of the above does not apply to the Phanteks, beware, a case from 2014 (and revised in 2018 with a tempered glass edition, which I had bought, having sold the original version). It may not have the most modern look, but in the end it was so far ahead of its time... Sturdy, ultimate price, space, comfort, and easy cable management.
In terms of airflow, the Be Quiet wins. HDD and NVMe have dropped by 5 degrees, with an ambient temperature of 19 degrees in both cases. Logical since there are no HDD cages in the front to restrict airflow. Graphics card the same. God of War at 62c with the same paste changed in the summer) while it had 63 in the Phanteks. I didn't try the solid panel, I have the AIO as an exhaust on the top, the same setup I had. I have the same temperatures on the 8700K, but now I have it +200Mhz all cores.
I should add that the case does not have any RGB. If you want to add, it requires study. I had a deepcool 360 (power from molex, ohh), which is not easily hidden. Prefer a strip that connects to the RGB or argb of the motherboard, it will save you a lot of trouble.
All in all, a powerful case with a major drawback in cable management.
Edit: I also tried the solid panel (with the mesh on the top since the AIO is exhaust and otherwise it will "suffocate") and I have a difference of 6-7 degrees, having the fan control on "Auto". I do not reach a point where the GPU (GTX 1080 Ti) or CPU need to lower clocks for smooth operation. Keep in mind that, in order for Auto to work, you must (in most cases) set your fans to "PWM mode" from the bios. In my case, I manually set the temperature values and the percentage I want the fans to run at and thus achieve quite good results without missing the NZXT fan controller I had. The difference is noticeable in noise. For anything that arises, I will update the review!
Final Edit:
almost after 2 years of coexistence, the case went to the living room in a modest build HTPC (big for the living room but we don't mind) and was replaced by the Antec Performance 1 FT, which for some reason is classified as a Full Tower, with smaller dimensions and yet with the same cables, I manage better Cable Management. The Airflow remains the same as with the Be Quiet, the drawback being the lack of a fan controller but I got a phanteks universal to do my job.
Now of course in the system plays Asrock Z790 Riptide with 13700K & RTX 4080, so there is no direct comparison of temperatures with my old comment that had older Hardware, however the above played 1+ year in the Be Quiet! The differences are negligible. From noise, it's more or less the same